![]() ![]() Use a pair of long-nose pliers, or Micro-Mark’s no. Spike holes are molded close to the rails on both sides. I drive the nails about 4″ to 5″ apart so they’re snug without distorting the ties. Nail holes run along the track center line and may need to be opened up with a small drill. Track can also be spiked or nailed down using the small holes molded into the ties for this purpose. I’m careful to avoid applying adhesive under the switch rod or the points to keep the adhesive from oozing up between the ties where it may produce potential problems with the free motion of the switch points. I dry-fit the track components before removing them while I apply a thin layer of adhesive on top of the roadbed. Then add a few nails to hold the roadbed sections down while the adhesive sets.Ĭonstruction adhesive can also be used to secure the track. Just spread the adhesive a little wider so the plastic edges are secured. The cast sectional roadbed can also be secured with construction adhesive. A nail set is handy for this job so you don’t hit and damage the rails or roadbed. Slip the rail joiners together, and drive the nails just tight enough to secure the rigid, plastic roadbed without distorting its shape. SL-14 pins that are perfect for this job. 2540 thin black track nails, and Peco offers no. Others have drill starting points underneath so you can drill the holes as needed.Ītlas sells no. Most of these sectional pieces include small mounting holes so the roadbed can be nailed to the benchtop. Some brands of sectional track have rigid, molded plastic sectional roadbed with a rock ballast texture. Then I sight along the rails to make sure everything is straight. I usually start at a complicated junction so I can carefully align all of its components. ![]() ![]() Laying the track is mostly a matter of starting at one point and then carefully fitting the rail joints into the joiners as you work your way around the track plan. On a wood surface, flexible roadbed can be nailed down with ½” flat head wire nails instead of using adhesive.Īfter the cork roadbed is secure, I use a Stanley Surform block plane to smooth and level the top surface and gently round off the top corners for ballasting. ![]() Woodland Scenics makes Track-Bed, a foam plastic roadbed for N, HO, and O scales, and Foam Tack Glue and Foam Nails for use in installing the Track-Bed. LN-604 (This method requires weighting or pinning the roadbed down overnight to allow the adhesive to set. If the layout is made of foam insulation board, we use Locktite’s P元00 Foam Board Construction Adhesive (or Liquid Nails Project & Foamboard Adhesive no. Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the center line, spread it evenly with a putty knife, and then press each half of the cork roadbed into the adhesive as you follow the center line. Cork roadbed comes in two pieces so the tapered edges go to the outside. Shaped cork or flexible plastic foam roadbed bends easily so it works well under curves.Ī track center line is needed to install the roadbed. Roadbed is used under model track to simulate the layer of crushed rock that supports prototype track. Good tracklaying has a direct bearing on your railroad’s performance, so take the time to do a good job and it’ll pay off in a smooth-operating layout. ![]()
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